PILGRIMAGE

The Caves of Maratika

When Lama Zopa Rinpoche visited Maratika Cave – also known as Haleshi and a very special place associated with Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) and long life – he asked Frances Howland to write about it for Mandala. “Maybe people will generate the thought to come here to practice,” he said. “Coming here, visiting holy places, it is better if people do practice, not just take pictures.”

Three days after Losar 2008 Lama Zopa Rinpoche flew from Kathmandu by helicopter to the cave area of Maratika. Rinpoche was accompanied by Kopan monks Ven. Jinpa and Ven. Kunkyen. I was one of two Western students who went along. The other was Rik van Keulen. Five days were spent at this holy site, situated in the mid-hills of Nepal in a remote farming area, with no electricity and where goods are carried in by mule trains.

There are a number of caves in the area but the main cave of pilgrimage is the Maratika Treasury Cave. It is here that Guru Rinpoche, with his consort Mandarava, achieved immortal life through the practice of Amitayus.

The caves of Maratika are mentioned in Tibetan literature from the twelfth century onwards. A biography of Guru Rinpoche, discovered by Nyangrel Nyima Ozer, describes why the Maratika caves are a sacred place for Buddhists. Other written sources say that at the request of the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara, Buddha Amitabha taught the eighteen tantras of Long Life. The dakinis wrote them down in their symbolic script using melted lapis lazuli on golden paper, and deposited them in a box made of five precious jewels, which they concealed in the secret Maratika cave. There are said to be many treasures buried in this holy place.

Upon arrival Rinpoche was met by a procession that included the Maratika Lama, 38-year-old Karma Wangchuk, the son of Ngawang Chophel, who was the main disciple of the Lawudo Lama Kunsang Yeshe. Ngawang Chophel's tulku, Tenzin Chogyal, was also present. Born in Sikkim in 2000, he was recognised by Kyabje Trulzhig Rinpoche and was enthroned in January 2003. He studies in Solu at Thubten Choling monastery. Lama Zopa Rinpoche was very affectionate towards him, saying that he seemed special.

Ngawang Chophel, who was born in 1922, was with the Lawudo Lama at his passing away. It was he who made the dangerous crossing from Khumbu into Tibet around 1949 to confirm with three high Lamas, including Kyabje Trulzhig Rinpoche from Rongphu, whether the young Lama Zopa was indeed the incarnation of the Lawudo Lama. Ngawang Chophel completed many retreats during his lifetime and later settled in Maratika, where in 1980 he built a monastery near the cave of Guru Rinpoche. Thereafter he became known as the Maratika Lama, passing away in 1997, while Kyabje Trulzhig Rinpoche was there. Today there are twenty-seven monks in the monastery, which is where we all stayed...

This article is an excerpt of the full article printed in Mandala

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